Fresh snow lights the night
The city precipitates
An ochre false dawn
In constructing an instrument, one must choose some starting point to which the rest of the body is oriented, or registered. For the vionola, I chose the pinblock as this starting point because it is a) probably the most solid and stable component, b) an interior part (although not interior-most), c) would have precise faces to which other parts can register, and d) itself needs to be constructed with precision (i.e., would be easily thrown out of symmetry if parts it registered to were imprecisely made).
For reference:
I collected the materials for construction: walnut for the endcaps, nut, bow, bridges, crank handle, and base; Baltic birch ply for the pinblock (more on that below); Sitka spruce for the soundboards; mahogany dowel for the axle; zither pins and strings; red piano felt for bearing surfaces.
Some detail on the pinblock:
Location of the pinblock beneath the soundboards (blue highlight)As you can see, the block is constructed from eight trapezoids with 22.5° sides; for scale, the base (outward face) of the trapezoid is 1.9" W x 2" L and the distance from the outward face to the center of the axle is ~4". The material for the pinblock is two layers of 17mm Baltic birch plywood, with the plane of the plies running parallel to the longitudinal axis (coplanar to the outward face). The reason why it is constructed out of eight trapezoids rather than simply cutting an octagon out of a single block of wood -- whether laminate or solid -- is that, in order for the pins to have a) a stable pinhole and b) maximum exposure to endgrain against which to bind, they are best driven perpendicularly through laminations with alternating grain direction. Therefore, building the pinblock in such a way as to have the grain and plies oriented optimally for all pins means each pin essentially gets its own mini-pinblock. (In fact, one could understand the vionola as basically eight single-string zithers arranged in a rough cylinder.)
A well-equipped shop would make short work of this; it's exactly the sort of thing a table saw with a good mitre sled could toss off literally in minutes. Unfortunately, my shop is very much in the fledgling stages and bang-for-the-buck calculus led me to choose a bandsaw for my first floor machine (I need to be able to cut curves). It's a good model, but bandsaws are by nature less precise than table saws and I'm a novice, so this was going to take me a while, even just to figure out how best to execute the cuts. Between initial set up of the saw and experimentation, it ended up taking a few weeks of off-hour messing about.
In my first attempt (all test cuts used 2x4 scraps, resawn, planed flat, and squared by hand), I tried a T-slot mitre that I bought as an accessory:
The degree scale on T-slot mitre turned out to be not only crude, but out of calibration, despite my best attempts to compensate. You'll note that the wedges were each just a little too big, so the last one couldn't quite squeeze in. My next attempt used the bandsaw's table tilt:
Although the table's tilt is easier to measure by making use of a digital gauge, I had the opposite problem this time: the wedges were each just a tad too small, so the octagon couldn't close up.
Another requirement I had was replicability: I needed to be able to cut wedges, do something else, and then cut wedges again and be able to depend on that the wedges in each set would be exactly 22.5° and come together to make a perfect octagon every time. The best way to do that with the equipment I have is to build a jig; so, that's what I did. Again, after quite a bit of trial-and-error and bandsawing and planing, I ended up with this:
With which I was able to produce this:
Ta-da! And there was much rejoicing. I was able to repeat this again, as well, so I took a deep breath and cut into my expensive Baltic birch ply:
After sanding the mitered faces flat, the narrow dimension of the large face (which is the wider of the parallel sides of the trapezoid) measured almost exactly 1.9" on all of them (only 1/1000" off), so I was pleased with that. A test fit yielded good results:
Next was the glue-up:
Once the glue had set and I could look at the pinblock as a unit, I saw that there was one joint that didn't quite fully seat; I believe the thickness of the glue, which I had not accounted for, produced that. However, the gap was very small and I was able to fill it with glue and sawdust.
Here is a shot of the completed pinblock in context with the uncut spruce for the soundboards, walnut for the endcaps and nut, and mahogany, all placed next to a ruler for scale; the overall length between the outsides of the endcaps is ~22" (the axle will extend a bit beyond that at each end).
Sometimes woodworking is like:
Last fall, while walking down my upstairs hallway, an idea came into my head, Athena-like (more or less), for a kind of drone instrument: a cylinder with strings running down its length all around, turned by a crank on an axle, and with a curved horsehair bow wrapping around half of it. I envisioned it as fairly large, several feet long and with at least a few dozen strings. It could be a monochord (all strings tuned in unison), or perhaps tuned to a pair of notes a fourth or fifth apart, maybe even a pentatonic scale, and, in any case, with half the strings being bowed simultaneously.
I was very excited by this idea and spent the next few months envisioning ever more precisely how such a thing might be constructed. I began assembling the needed tools, CADing a prototype, and ordering the materials. I'm now at the point where I can begin to build it. Here are some screenshots of the rendered prototype:
What you're looking at: the core of this instrument is an octagonal cylinder about 20 inches long, across the length of which eight strings are stretched. Each side is comprised of what is essentially a one-sided zither: a spruce soundboard, underneath one end of which is a pinblock (unseen in these renderings), into which, in turn, is driven a tuning pin; from the pin, over a small bridge, along the soundboard, and over the slot-like soundhole, runs a wire string, which then anchors to an endblock that also serves for a nut. Eight of these simple zithers are then set next to each other to make the cylinder. The soundboards, although they make the shape of the instrument, are not intended to provide structure. Instead, the pinblock and endblock are themselves anchored to the axle on which the whole unit turns; thus the load of the string tension is intended to be borne by the blocks and the axle, freeing up the soundboards to resonate. (Also, the spruce to be used for the soundboards is a fairly weak wood structurally.) The ends of the axle then rest on Y-shaped supports in a frame, allowing the player to rest the instrument on a surface, turn the crank with one hand, and hold the bow -- the large hoop-like shape -- with the other.
As you can see, this proof-of-concept prototype is much smaller than what I described above, having only eight strings and being about two feet long overall. There are several issues I need to test before investing the time and, especially, materials in a full size version. First, I need to learn how to construct a tubular soundbox such that the soundboard can take the medial (toward the axis) force of the strings, while also putting as much of the longitudinal force of the strings (that created by the string tension) as possible elsewhere (i.e., the blocks and axle); for that matter, I'm unsure of exactly how much total force the structure will have to withstand. Second, I have no idea about how the resonance of a wooden cylindrical shape when stimulated by a bow and string might work (as opposed to when such a shape is struck like a wind chime) and will need to identify nodes and anti-nodes to determine where the bridges can to be placed, their ideal shape, etc., and, indeed, if the thing can sing at all. Third, the mechanics of a hoop-bow are, at this point, entirely imaginal; I am unsure if it can even work. There are other, smaller challenges to work out, as well as unforeseen problems that will certainly arise. I fully expect, too, that scaling up to a, say, four-foot long, 32- or 36-string version will produce new issues, but I'm hoping that this prototype will help me "figure out how to figure out" how to build it.
To the best of my ability to ascertain, this is an entirely novel device. I would not put money on it being so, as humans have been inventing sound making machines perhaps longer than we've had language, but I've not seen anything like it in any of the research I've done on musical instrument building. I think of it as a kind of inside-out hurdy-gurdy: in that instrument, the strings are stationary and a rosined wheel that serves as a kind of endless bow is cranked across them, while in this, the bow is stationary and the strings move across it. I would be unsurprised if no-one had built such a thing, as, honestly, it seems a pretty ridiculous way to build an instrument, but it's my idea and it's interesting to me, even if it is terribly impractical, and so I plunge ahead.
For a name, I chose "vionola" as a reference to both the violin family and the instrument's mechanical nature, recalling the trend in the early 20th century to add "-ola" to a variety of brands and objects (although not exclusively mechanical ones). Also, it harkens back to my first career after music school, rebuilding player pianos, for a kind of nostalgic symmetry. (To be fair, and as I implied above, the instrument has much more in common with a zither than a violin family instrument. Technically, a zither is a stringed instrument the strings of which do not extend beyond the soundboard, while the bow is not relevant to the definition; for example, a bowed psaltery, while played somewhat like a violin, is nonetheless considered a type of zither. That said, while "zithola" might arguably be more correct, I'm going to indulge my violistic bias.)
My plan, beginning in the next week or two, is to post my progress here, showing pix of what I'm doing and relevant excerpts from my CAD. Having now watched countless hours of woodworking, guitar-building, and various instrument-making videos on YouTube as a result of the pandemic, I have a sense of the time and effort that goes into a filmic documentation of one's work and, at this stage anyway, have no interest in making that investment. I'm not even very confident I'll be self-aware enough to remember to take pictures of the project as I proceed, but I'm going to take a swing at it.
I originally conceived this piece over two years ago and have been futzing with it off and on since. That time was largely split between trying to figure out the end of it and rehearsing the more exposed viola parts: this is the first "public" performance I've made as a violist in close to twenty years.